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毛豆腐成“电子榨菜”，超市货架上的腐乳却无人问津？
南 南方周末 @南方周末
One Sentence Summary
The article analyzes the contrast between the popularity of hairy tofu videos as soothing 'digital side dishes' on short video platforms and the declining sales of finished fermented tofu in real life, pointing to high sodium as a health concern, diversified dietary choices among young people, and fragmented industry branding as the core reasons for the fermented tofu market contraction.
Summary
This article analyzes the phenomenon of hairy tofu's popularity on short video platforms versus the declining sales of finished fermented tofu. The author first clarifies the three types of fermented tofu family - white type (hairy tofu), red type, and green type (stinky tofu) - and explains the psychological reasons for hairy tofu videos' popularity: the soft texture of white fuzz satisfies people's psychological need for comfort, and the orderly process of cutting tofu brings psychological relaxation through a sense of control. However, the fermented tofu market is facing severe challenges: in 2024, the market size contracted by 4.7% year-on-year, and leading companies are seeing declining performance. The author believes the core reasons are that under the wave of healthy eating, high sodium has become fermented tofu's 'original sin', while young people's diversified dietary choices have turned fermented tofu from a 'savior' into a marginal option. Additionally, the fragmented industry landscape with deep price wars has weakened the ability for brand upgrades and R&D investment. The author finally suggests that the fermented tofu industry adapt to new consumption trends through low-sodium technology research, expanding consumption scenarios, and reshaping brand perception.
Main Points
* 1. Hairy tofu videos succeed due to their visual therapeutic quality - white fuzz triggers humans' instinctive preference for soft objects, providing low-cost psychological comfort.The white, fluffy form of hairy tofu resembles early winter snow or plush toys, and the orderly process of cutting tofu satisfies viewers' psychological need for a 'sense of control', which is the psychological driver behind its popularity as a 'digital side dish'. * 2. The fermented tofu market has entered negative growth, with 2024 size contracting by 4.7% year-on-year, and leading companies are under performance pressure.Zhu Lao Liu's 2025 revenue decreased by 9.36% year-on-year, and Xianheng's fermented tofu revenue in the first half of 2025 decreased by 2.78% year-on-year, with the entire industry facing sales decline pressure. * 3. High sodium is fermented tofu's biggest 'original sin', conflicting with healthy eating trends.Red type fermented tofu contains 3091mg of sodium per 100g, and a 10g piece of fermented tofu accounts for 10% of daily recommended salt intake. Over 97% of consumers pay attention to condiment ingredient lists, making high sodium the core factor for consumers abandoning fermented tofu. * 4. Diversified dietary choices among young people have turned fermented tofu from a 'savior' into a marginal option.Delivery services, global sauces, and internet-famous foods have greatly enriched 'rice companion' choices - fermented tofu is no longer a necessity but a 'old-fashioned' and replaceable option. * 5. Industry fragmentation and price war vicious cycles hinder R&D and brand upgrades.The fermented tofu industry presents a 'fragmented warlord' pattern, with Wang Zhi He and Zhu Lao Liu in the north, and Xianheng, San He Si Mei in the south, lacking a national leading brand to lead, while promotional price wars have weakened innovation investment capability.
Metadata
AI Score
78
Website mp.weixin.qq.com
Published At Yesterday
Length 2632 words (about 11 min)
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全文共2656字，阅读大约需要8分钟
* 毛豆腐其实是腐乳家族中的“白方”，而整个腐乳家族分为红方、青方、白方三个核心成员，它们虽同出一源，却在外观、风味、用途上各不相同。 本文来源于南周知道 文｜李愚 编 辑｜刘韵珊
打开短视频平台，很容易刷到这样一类治愈系内容：街头小摊上，一排排白白胖胖的豆腐块整齐摆放，表面覆盖着一层浓密、蓬松的白色绒毛，摊主手持勺子，将豆腐划成均匀的小方块，再撒上红彤彤的辣椒粉、花椒粉，动作行云流水，伴随着勺子刮过豆腐的簌簌声，整个过程舒缓而有序。
评论区里，网友们纷纷留言“太解压了”“看了一遍又一遍”“莫名治愈”……一场关于毛豆腐/霉豆腐的流量狂欢，正在全网蔓延。
与短视频里毛豆腐的火爆形成鲜明反差的是，同属腐乳家族的成品腐乳（经过深加工的毛豆腐），在现实市场中遭遇了冷遇——行业萎缩，业绩下滑。
为何短视频里的毛豆腐热度居高不下，而我们日常在超市货架上看到的腐乳，却逐渐被消费者冷落，陷入卖不动的困境？
1
#### 走红的毛豆腐
首先要理清一个概念：我们在短视频里看到的毛豆腐，其实是腐乳家族中的“白方”，而整个腐乳家族分为红方、青方、白方三个核心成员，它们虽同出一源，却在外观、风味、用途上各不相同。
先说“白方”。新鲜豆腐切块后，在温暖湿润的环境中接种毛霉菌，几天之后，表面就会覆盖上一层浓密的白色绒毛，这层绒毛是毛霉菌分泌的酶，它们会将豆腐中的蛋白质分解为氨基酸，为后续的腌制和后熟奠定基础。
“白方”只是半成品，它可以直接下锅煎着吃，煎到两面金黄，外酥里嫩，蘸上辣酱，别有一番风味；抑或，经过搓毛、滚酒、裹盐、装坛、密封，在时间的催化下，最终变成红方或青方。
“红方”是我们最熟悉、最常吃的腐乳。长了毛的豆腐首先要经过腌制，让盐分渗入豆腐内部，在后期发酵的过程中会加入红曲米进行调色，最终呈现出枣红色或鲜红色，口感醇厚，咸鲜中带着一丝回甜，还夹杂着淡淡的酒香和脂香，无论是直接佐餐下饭，还是用来烧肉、焖菜，都是不错的选择，也是腐乳商业化市场的主流品类。
“青方”，就是我们常说的臭豆腐。毛豆腐腌制后，装入坛中，灌入黄浆水，这种特殊的卤汁环境会让腐乳呈现出青黑色，散发着浓烈甚至刺鼻的臭味，但入口后却咸香细腻、回味无穷，爱的人欲罢不能，怕的人避之不及。
乍一听，毛豆腐或霉豆腐的说法难免让人联想到腐败、变质，多少带着几分恐怖。
但当你真正看到毛豆腐的画面时，观感却截然不同。那些覆盖在豆腐表面的白色绒毛密集、蓬松、柔软，像初冬落在窗台上的第一层薄雪，又像刚拆封的绒毛玩具，让人忍不住想伸手去摸一摸。
毛豆腐白花花、软绵绵的形态，天然就能击中人们内心最柔软的地方。
从心理学角度来说，人类对柔软物体的偏好是一种近乎本能的选择，柔软意味着温暖、安全和抚慰。即便隔着屏幕，毛豆腐也能让人在想象中感受到那种细腻柔软的触感，获得一种低成本的心理慰藉。
短视频中，摊主拿起一把勺子，将一整板方方正正的毛豆腐轻轻划成一个小方块，绒毛被轻轻抚平，毛豆腐被分开并掉落在盘子里，然后淋酒、撒料、装罐，整个过程流畅、笃定、一气呵成，呈现出一种完美的秩序感。这也满足了我们对“可控感”的心理需求，获得了某种程度的心理松弛。
不过，短视频里的毛豆腐只是一种“视觉消费品”，很多人刷了不下一百个卖毛豆腐的短视频，但一次毛豆腐都没吃过。
（IC photo / 图）
2
#### 遭遇挑战的腐乳
尽管短视频里的毛豆腐很火，但它的最主流成品腐乳，却遭遇了前所未有的挑战，陷入了“卖不动”的尴尬境地。
根据调味行业主流自媒体“调味家”的数据，腐乳市场已经正式步入负增长区间，2024年的市场规模同比萎缩4.7%。头部企业的业绩压力也不小。
作为北交所“腐乳第一股”，朱老六2025年实现营业收入2.16亿元，同比下降9.36%，而另一家以腐乳为主营业务的企业咸亨股份，2025年上半年核心产品腐乳的营收为0.60亿元，同比下降2.78%。
明明是短视频里热度很高的腐乳家族，为何现实中的成品腐乳却卖不动了？
最核心的原因就是，当下席卷全民的健康饮食浪潮正在重塑人们的味觉选择和消费习惯。
腐乳最大的“原罪”，就是高盐。
根据《中国食物成分表（第二版）》的数据，不同种类的腐乳钠含量存在差异：每100克白方腐乳含钠2460毫克，青方为2012毫克，红方则高达3091毫克。
按照每克盐约含400毫克钠的换算标准，一块约10克的腐乳，实际对应的盐摄入量大约在0.5至0.8克之间，占《中国居民膳食指南（2022）》建议的每日食盐摄入量（不超过5克）的10%左右。
一项基于我国居民饮食习惯的评估研究显示，当前我国人均每日食盐的摄入量仍高达10.5克，远超世卫组织建议的5克标准，而其中约80%的钠摄入来自调味品。
当越来越多的人注重健康饮食，调味品自然成为消费者优先调整的对象。《2025年调味品市场消费趋势洞察报告》显示，超过97%的消费者在购买调味品时会关注配料表或营养成分表，其中“经常看”的比例高达52.9%。不只是腐乳，不少咸味佐料因为高盐而被消费者抛弃。
除了健康因素，腐乳在代际之间的意义也发生了微妙的转变。
对于老一辈人来说，“一块腐乳半碗饭”是刻在记忆里的味觉体验，在物资并不丰裕的年代，一块咸香浓郁的腐乳就能让一碗白饭、一碗清粥变得有滋有味。
但今天的年轻人面对的饮食选择实在太多了。外卖平台上琳琅满目的菜系，超市货架上来自世界各地的酱料、拌饭酱、即食小菜，社交媒体上不断刷新的网红美食，都让“下饭”这件事变得轻而易举。腐乳不再是那个不可或缺的“救兵”，而只是众多选择中的一个，甚至是一个略显“老派”的选项。
行业自身的困境也加剧了腐乳业的困境。
腐乳行业长期呈现出“诸侯割据”的局面，北方有王致和、朱老六，南方有咸亨、三和四美、广合等区域性品牌，却没有真正的全国性头部品牌引领。
不论是线下商场还是电商平台，腐乳产品的促销活动此起彼伏，导致整个行业陷入了同质化、价格战的恶性循环，反而没有余力投入研发和品牌升级，也更难实现市场份额的扩充。
不可否认，腐乳承载着中国人的味觉记忆，也蕴含着深厚的饮食文化。
然而，传统美食从来都不是一成不变的，腐乳想要在新时代继续生存下去，就必须跟上时代的步伐，适应消费者的需求变化：进一步推进低盐化技术研发，降低产品的钠含量，贴合健康消费趋势；拓展消费场景，让腐乳融入年轻人的生活；重塑品牌认知，摆脱“老气”“土气”的标签，让更多年轻人了解腐乳、接受腐乳……
否则，毛豆腐在短视频里再火，也只是隔着一层屏幕的“叶公好龙”。
南 南方周末 @南方周末
One Sentence Summary
The article analyzes the contrast between the popularity of hairy tofu videos as soothing 'digital side dishes' on short video platforms and the declining sales of finished fermented tofu in real life, pointing to high sodium as a health concern, diversified dietary choices among young people, and fragmented industry branding as the core reasons for the fermented tofu market contraction.
Summary
This article analyzes the phenomenon of hairy tofu's popularity on short video platforms versus the declining sales of finished fermented tofu. The author first clarifies the three types of fermented tofu family - white type (hairy tofu), red type, and green type (stinky tofu) - and explains the psychological reasons for hairy tofu videos' popularity: the soft texture of white fuzz satisfies people's psychological need for comfort, and the orderly process of cutting tofu brings psychological relaxation through a sense of control. However, the fermented tofu market is facing severe challenges: in 2024, the market size contracted by 4.7% year-on-year, and leading companies are seeing declining performance. The author believes the core reasons are that under the wave of healthy eating, high sodium has become fermented tofu's 'original sin', while young people's diversified dietary choices have turned fermented tofu from a 'savior' into a marginal option. Additionally, the fragmented industry landscape with deep price wars has weakened the ability for brand upgrades and R&D investment. The author finally suggests that the fermented tofu industry adapt to new consumption trends through low-sodium technology research, expanding consumption scenarios, and reshaping brand perception.
Main Points
* 1. Hairy tofu videos succeed due to their visual therapeutic quality - white fuzz triggers humans' instinctive preference for soft objects, providing low-cost psychological comfort.
The white, fluffy form of hairy tofu resembles early winter snow or plush toys, and the orderly process of cutting tofu satisfies viewers' psychological need for a 'sense of control', which is the psychological driver behind its popularity as a 'digital side dish'.
* 2. The fermented tofu market has entered negative growth, with 2024 size contracting by 4.7% year-on-year, and leading companies are under performance pressure.
Zhu Lao Liu's 2025 revenue decreased by 9.36% year-on-year, and Xianheng's fermented tofu revenue in the first half of 2025 decreased by 2.78% year-on-year, with the entire industry facing sales decline pressure.
* 3. High sodium is fermented tofu's biggest 'original sin', conflicting with healthy eating trends.
Red type fermented tofu contains 3091mg of sodium per 100g, and a 10g piece of fermented tofu accounts for 10% of daily recommended salt intake. Over 97% of consumers pay attention to condiment ingredient lists, making high sodium the core factor for consumers abandoning fermented tofu.
* 4. Diversified dietary choices among young people have turned fermented tofu from a 'savior' into a marginal option.
Delivery services, global sauces, and internet-famous foods have greatly enriched 'rice companion' choices - fermented tofu is no longer a necessity but a 'old-fashioned' and replaceable option.
* 5. Industry fragmentation and price war vicious cycles hinder R&D and brand upgrades.
The fermented tofu industry presents a 'fragmented warlord' pattern, with Wang Zhi He and Zhu Lao Liu in the north, and Xianheng, San He Si Mei in the south, lacking a national leading brand to lead, while promotional price wars have weakened innovation investment capability.
Key Quotes
* A study based on Chinese residents' dietary habits shows that China's per capita daily salt intake is still as high as 10.5g, far exceeding the WHO recommended 5g standard, with about 80% of sodium intake coming from condiments. * Over 97% of consumers pay attention to ingredient lists or nutrition facts when purchasing condiments, with 52.9% 'regularly checking'. * The fermented tofu industry has long presented a 'fragmented warlord' situation, with Wang Zhi He and Zhu Lao Liu in the north, and Xianheng, San He Si Mei, Guanghe in the south - regional brands without a true national leading brand to lead. * Otherwise, no matter how popular hairy tofu becomes on short videos, it remains 'love of the dragon' separated by a screen.
AI Score
78
Website mp.weixin.qq.com
Published At Yesterday
Length 2632 words (about 11 min)
Tags
Hairy Tofu
Fermented Tofu
Short Video Economy
Food Industry
Healthy Eating
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